SPC/WPC - VINYL PLANK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

General Information

• Do not store directly on concrete, allow for air circulation. Do not open the cartons but spread them out and protect corners from damage.

• To minimize shade variation, mix and install planks from several cartons.

• Avoid exposure to direct sunlight for prolonged periods; such exposure may result in discoloration.

• All subfloor patching must be done with a Portland based compound and allowed to dry completely prior to installing flooring.

• This product can be installed on, above, or below grade.

Tools needed

- Straight edge

- Pencil

- Chalk Line

- Measuring tape

- Power Crosscut Saw

- Jigsaw for cutting irregular shapes

- Rubber Mallet

- Blue or Green Painter’s Tape

- Assorted spacers

Planks needed to complete your project: Measure the length and width of your room. If the room has alcoves or offsets, measure these separately. This will give you the square footage of the room. Purchase a minimum of 10% extra to cover mistakes, trimming, and for future needs and replacement. Most installations require about 10% overage. However, this can vary depending upon the room size, layout and the experience of the installer.

For best results it is important to purchase product (cases) from the same batch number (dye lot). Different batch numbers can have shade variations. Every case of flooring has the batch number printed on the end of the case. Batch number example: AS01. If you do have more than one batch number, we highly recommend you install planks from 4 or 5 different cases from different batch number at one time and randomly mix them into the installation as you go. This will insure a more natural looking floor.

CAUTION: Do not install SPC/WPC - Vinyl Planks over carpet. This product is not suitable for any outside use, solariums, sauna, or rooms that have the potential of flooding. We also highly recommend you do not install in rooms or homes that are not temperature controlled.

Acclimation: The home should be at “normal living conditions” for a minimum of 1 week prior to and during installation. L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not require that the SPC/WPC - Vinyl Planks be acclimated before installation. It is noted that in extreme temperatures (hot or cold), the product will be easier to work with if it is allowed to obtain a temperature of 60-70 degrees before installation. The home should be maintained at 55-85 degrees and 35-55% humidity.

Subfloor Information

• All subfloors must be clean, flat, dry and structurally sound. The correct preparation of the subfloor is a major part of a successful installation. Roughness or unevenness of the subfloor may telegraph through the new floor covering, resulting in an unsightly surface and may cause excessive wear on high spots. Subfloor must be flat- 1/8" in 10' or 1/8".

• Carpet staples or adhesive residue must be removed to insure proper installation.

• Any unevenness over 1/8” (3 mm) must be sanded down or filled with a floor leveler. Voids or humps in the subfloor will prevent the locking mechanism from locking properly.

Wood Subfloors:

1. Do not install SPC/WPC – Vinyl Planks over wood subfloors which lay directly on concrete or over sleeper constructions.

2. All wood and wood composition panels are suitable for the use under SPC/WPC – Vinyl Planks providing that they are smooth, flat, structurally sound and free of deflection. The panels include plywood, particle board, oriented strand board (OSB), flake board and wafer board.

3. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry. Use of a 6 mil. black polyethylene is required to cover 100% of the crawl space earth. Crawl space clearance from ground to underside of joist is to be no less than 18" and perimeter vent spacing should be equal to 1.5% of the total square footage of the crawl space area to provide cross ventilation. Where necessary, local regulations prevail.

Concrete Subfloors:

1. The concrete subfloor must be dry, smooth and free from dust, solvent, paint, wax, grease, oil, and any other extraneous materials. The surface must be hard and dense, and free from powder or flaking.

2. New concrete slabs must be thoroughly dry (at least six weeks) and completely cured. The final responsibility for determining if the concrete is dry enough for installation of the flooring lies with the floor covering installer. Although SPC/WPC – Vinyl Planks are not susceptible to damage from moisture, excessive subfloor moisture is an ideal breeding ground for moldiness, mildew and fungus. The limited warranty does not cover discoloration from mold or from any kind of water damage caused by flooding, leaking or similar conditions.

3. Holes, grooves, expansion joints and other depressions must be filled with a latex underlayment, and troweled smooth and feathered even with the surrounding surface.

4. Concrete floors with in-floor radiant heating systems are allowed, provided the temperature of the floor never exceeds 85°F or 29°C. Before installing the flooring, the heating system must be turned on to eliminate residual moisture.

Existing Floor Covering:

1. SPC/WPC – Vinyl Plank can be installed over most existing hard–surface floor coverings, provided that the existing floor surface is smooth or can be made smooth.

2. Ceramic tiles should be made smooth by applying a cementitious overlay such as patching or levelling compound.

3. When the removal of the existing resilient floor covering is not an option then it must be covered with an embossing levelling compound or an equivalent to provide a smooth subfloor surface. Otherwise, telegraphing may occur.

4. Existing sheet vinyl should not be heavily cushioned and must consist of only one layer.

5. Never use solvents or citrus adhesive removers to remove old adhesive residue. Solvent residue left in and on the subfloor, may affect the new floor covering.

WARNING! DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW, BEADBLAST OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING, LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC "CUTBACK" ADHESIVES OR OTHER ADHESIVES.

These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica. Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm. Unless positively certain that the product is a non-asbestos-containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern the removal and disposal of material. See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for detailed information and instructions on removing all resilient covering structures. For current information go to www.rfci.com

NOTE: Before laying out the floor, check the wall you are starting from and make sure it is square to the opposite wall. Simply measure the room from opposite ends of the wall to the far wall. If the measurements are different, you can make adjustments on the first row by scribing the plank. SPC/WPC – Vinyl Plank is designed to be installed with the floating method. Never secure the planks to the subfloor. Always undercut all doorjambs. Never fasten wall moldings and or transition strips to the planks.

Installation:

1. Starting from the corner, lay a row of loose planks without securing them to each other first to determine if you need to adjust the layout or scribe the first row to conform to the starting wall.

2. Installation should start with the first piece in a corner and proceed from the wall with the groove facing out away from the wall. Allow a minimum gap of 1/4” for subfloor movement or product expansion, which should be covered by molding.

3. Line up the end of the next piece by overlapping the first. Using a rubber mallet, tap the joint together with a downward motion until the tongue and groove are securely locked. Continue in this manner until you have reached the end of the first row.

4. Be sure to keep the seams tight. You will feel and hear the click when locking the planks together to create a tight seam. There should be no gap visible between planks. If your seam appears not to be tight, you can immediately pull apart the planks and reapply it. Slowly and carefully lift the top plank away from the bottom plank and simply apply them repeating Step #3. Be careful not to pull the planks apart too fast or you could rip or damage the Locking Strip.

5. When installing SPC/WPC - Vinyl Plank, it is strongly recommended to stagger the rows so that the short edge (7”) seams are not in a straight uniform line. We recommend staggering the end-joints by a minimum of 8” but maintaining a random layout. Do not create a pattern.

6. Interlock the first plank tightly against the first row (long side) at a 15-20-degree angle.

7. Align the end of the next plank over the end groove of the previous plank and lower the side joint together. Tap the end joint down with the rubber mallet using a downward angle towards the adjoining plank until the tongue and groove lock together.

8. Inspect each plank after install to assure the long and short ends are tight.

9. Continue with the installation in this manner. Use end cuts as starters for the next rows as long as proper stagger is maintained.

NOTE: When cutting SPC/WPC - Vinyl Plank for length, be sure to always cut the short side of the plank with the groove edge. The remaining piece can then be used on the opposite side of the room at the end of that row if layout permits.

10. To fit around irregular objects, simply make a pattern out of heavy paper. Place the pattern upon the plank and trace. Cut along trace lines using a jigsaw. Be sure to leave a minimum of 1/4” expansion space around all fixed objects, floor vents, and door frames and walls.

11. When installing under door jambs, it may be required to carefully shave the top ledge of the groove. Use wood glue applied to bottom lip of the groove to secure. Hold in place with painter’s tape until glue is dry.

12. After complete, reinstall or add new quarter round to cover expansion space. Only nail straight into the wall base, do not nail down through the floor into the subfloor as this will eliminate the expansion properties.

13. Add appropriate transition moldings. Make sure the floor can float under the overlap of each transition profile.

• This is a floating floor system. As with all floating floors, do not install cabinets on top of flooring. The cabinets must be installed first and the flooring cut around them.

• Do not install in rooms or homes that are not temperature controlled. Exposure to long term direct sunlight can cause damage to your floor.

• Furniture should have felt pads attached to all legs and all metal tabs/nails removed.

• Do not use ball type castors as they can damage the floor. All castors or wheels should be easy swiveling and suitable for resilient flooring.

• SPC/WPC - Vinyl Plank is approved for installation over In-floor Radiant Heat. Floor temperature must not exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

CARE GUIDE:

• Use doormats outside each entrance to your home to prevent dirt, sand, grit and other substances from being tracked onto your floor. Use non-staining mats on your floor. Do not put rubber-backed, latex-backed or coco fiber mats on your floor because they will stain or damage the surface.

• Close your curtains or blinds where extreme sunlight hits the floor. Exposure to long term direct sunlight can cause discoloration to your floor.

• Support furniture with wide-bearing, non-staining floor protectors. Ideally, the protectors should be at least one inch in diameter, made of non-pigmented hard plastic, and rest flat on the floor. Non-staining felt protectors are also acceptable. Casters (type W), felt pads or floor protectors are recommended for all moveable furniture. Use protection mats under chairs with caster to avoid abrasion of the vinyl flooring. Make sure that any metal protectors are rust-proof.

• If you need to move heavy furniture and/or appliances across the floor, always use strips of wood or hardboard runways to protect the floor. Always use runways even if you have an appliance dolly, or even if the heavy objects are equipped with wheels or rollers.

• Occasional mopping with Rinse-Free Cleaner is recommended when dirt builds up and sweeping alone is not sufficient. Follow strictly the guidelines given on the bottle. Do not use wax, polish, soap or detergent products.

SOLID NAIL-DOWN WOOD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Inspect the job site carefully before you begin the installation. Some conditions require specific installation methods. A level, flat, clean, dry, and firm subfloor is always necessary. All L.W. Mountain, Inc. products are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficiencies not to exceed 5%. If the material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.

Climate and Pre-Installation Procedures

      •  Material should be stored on the job site in rooms where installation is to occur.
      •  Garages and exterior patios are not suitable for storing wood flooring.
      •  Do not remove the product from the cartons. 
      •  Do not open just the ends of the cartons. 
      •  HVAC systems must be installed and operating before the flooring is delivered to the job site. 
      •  All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. 
      •  Exterior Grading should be complete with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3’ in 10’. 
      •  Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24” from the ground to the underside of the joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to 1.5% of the crawl space square footage.

lwmountain .jpg

Make sure the room environment is set at a normal living range 55 – 80 degrees and 35 – 55% humidity. Normal living conditions should be achieved and maintained a minimum of fourteen days before flooring is brought into the living area for acclimation purposes. It should be maintained during and after the installation as well. Proper acclimation is not a measurement of time; it is a measurement of moisture levels. It requires taking moisture readings of the flooring and the sub-flooring. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Using a moisture meter, test the subfloor and hardwood flooring for moisture content. Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6-12% depending on your area. When wood flooring is produced for the North American market, it has a moisture content of between 6-9%. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. For wide‐width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. 
      The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (35-55%) within the home throughout the year. L.W. Mountain, Inc. is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.

Appropriate Subfloors

      1.  Preferred Subfloor
            1)  ¾ inch CDX plywood in 4 x 8-foot sheets
            2)  ¾ inch OSB - PS2 rated in 4 x 8-foot sheets
      2.  Existing wood floors
      3.  Sheet vinyl or resilient tile as long as it is installed over one of the preferred subfloors.
      4.  Concrete slabs – Installation should be done by installer with substantial knowledge of N.W.F.A. (National Wood Flooring Association) recommended alternatives for installing over concrete slabs.

Radiant Heated Floors – L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends, and warranties certain engineered flooring be installed over in-floor radiant heated subfloors. Contact us for recommended floors. Our solid should never be installed over any kind of radiant heat system.

Subfloor Preparation

      1.  Subfloors must be cleaned. This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials. 
      2.  Subfloors must be flat. ¼ inch in 10 feet. Sand all seams and high spots. 
      3.  Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start. Renail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak. Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
      4.  The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.

Solid_Figure1-2 (2).jpg

                                                 
Above Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. 

On Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. L.W. Mountain. Inc. does not recommend gluing down solid wood on concrete slabs. Solid Bamboo can be glued with appropriate adhesives. *See Technical Letter* 

Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed. Solid wood and bamboo should not be installed below grade.

Mechanical Fastener Selection 

L.W. Mountain, Inc. only requires the use of flooring cleats with Strand Bamboo, Acacia, and Jatoba floors. Staples or cleats may be used for our other flooring, however, be aware that ALL cleats are made to install wood flooring, only certain staples are made exclusively for use with flooring. Using staples which are not directly intended for flooring can lead to loose and squeaking floors. This would be considered improper installation and void the warranty.

Fastener Length

For most installations of ¾” Solid, LWM requires fasteners to be a minimum 1 ¾” length. If thicker sound deadening underlayment is used, longer fasteners will be needed.

TEST THE NAILER: Using one of the recommended type nail guns, test by fastening a sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface damage in a well-lighted area, verify air pressure setting and tongue damage, make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins, remove the test board. Tongue fracture and surface dimpling during installation is common and can be minimized by (1) using the correct nail thickness, (2) using the recommended shoe adaptor, or (3) changing the angle of nail entry. Many installers will temporarily adjust the nailer angle by applying layers of duct tape to the bottom foot plate of the nailer. In addition, to reduce the occurrence of surface dimpling, the use of flooring nailers with a thinner 18-20 gage cleat nail is recommended for bamboo especially the much harder Strand Bamboo. The use of the over-size base plate in order to distribute the driving force is encouraged. If, however, surface dimpling or tongue fracture still occurs, drilling pilot holes and hand nailing may be required. Pounding boards together during assembly with a rubber mallet may damage unprotected board edges.

Note: Only use flooring nailers that are fully adjustable and that engage the top profile over the tongue at the appropriate angle. Make sure that the flooring nailer is in good working condition and seats properly against the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.

CleatNailer1.jpg
CleatNailer2.jpg

Important: Set air compressor pressure to allow appropriate fastener penetration. Test and adjust the air pressure to ensure proper setting of fasteners. If tongue damage occurs, lower the air pressure.

L.W. Mountain, Inc. only requires using proper mechanical fastening techniques for our solid wood flooring since all of our solid products are less than 5” in width. The use of “Glue-assist” is an option. This can help reduce the possibility of squeaky floors. Please contact us for proper “Glue-assist” techniques and recommended adhesives.

Installation

Notice: The installer is the final inspector of this product. Once a board is nailed or glued to the floor, it is deemed to be acceptable to the installer and homeowner. If the installer is not sure whether or not the floor’s milling or grading is acceptable, work should stop immediately, and a call should be made to the person that sold the floor.

A.  Before installing wood flooring, place an approved vapor retarder. Some examples of acceptable vapor retarders over wood subfloors include: 
            1.  An asphalt laminated paper meeting UU-B-790a, Grade B, Type 1, Style 1a.
            2.  Asphalt-saturated kraft paper of #15 or #30 felt that meets ASTM standard D-4869 or UU-B-790, Grade D
            3.  Red Rosin Paper
B.  All solid wood and bamboo should be installed perpendicular to joists or on a diagonal for any single layer subfloor. 
C.  Wall Line Layout
            1.  Choose a starting wall according to the most aesthetically or architecturally important elements in the room, taking into consideration fireplaces, doors, cabinets, and transitions, as well as the squareness of the room. Outside walls of homes are generally the straightest. The starting wall will often be the longest unbroken wall in the room. 
            2.  Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, allowing a ¾ inch expansion space between the starting wall and the edge of the first run.
            3.  As a general rule, a ¾ inch expansion space must be left around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions.
            4.  Lay one row of flooring along the entire length of the working line. Be sure to work with material out of several cartons to assure proper blending of lengths and natural wood variations.
            5.  Blind-nail the first row (hand-nail if necessary), using appropriate fasteners. Denser species (such as Acacia, Jatoba, and Strand Bamboo) may require pre-drilling. Each succeeding row should be blind-nailed with the nailing machine whenever possible. All nailing should begin and end approximately 2” from the ends of each board and continue every 6-8”. At the finishing wall and other obstructions, it may be necessary to blind-nail by hand or glue-down with subfloor adhesive, the final rows. 
            6.  Racking rule of thumb: Stagger end joints in adjacent rows at least twice the width of the boards, as product allows. Do not use stair step spacing. Avoid End-Joint line up & H joints. See figure A-1. 
  

FigureA-1 (1).jpg

            7.  Nailing: Blind-nail through the tongue. Use 1 ¾ inch to 2 inch fasteners for solid wood. Use 1 ½ inch fasteners for thinner woods and bamboos. Fasteners should be spaced every 6-8 inches on blind-nailing.
            8.  Complete the final rows by either blind-nailing or gluing them down with subfloor adhesive. L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not recommend top-nailing any pre-finished flooring due to visual aspects.

Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a ¾ inch expansion space left between it and the floor. If your drywall stops at least ¾” above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the ¾” expansion space requirement.

         •  Once the floor has been completed the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room. This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor. 
         •  Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
         •  Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner.
         •  Enjoy your new hard wood floor.

Note: When installing denser species of wood, such as acacia and jatoba, L.W. Mountain, Inc. requires the use of cleat fasteners. Staples should not be used as they have a tendency to break tongues on harder species.

If installing bamboo flooring, see our Bamboo Fastener Selection section found at the end of this post. 

Trims & Transitions

There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another. Before completing your floor it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor. These are rough diagrams of common transition pieces, bamboo transitions are different thicknesses.

Transitions.jpg
StairNosing.jpg

*Moldings must always be nailed to the wall or subfloor, never to the hardwood flooring.

Additional Information

Waste Factor 
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor. During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor. In addition, some boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste. Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep your floor’s appearance. The standard in the flooring industry is to order five - ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.

Post Installation
L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not recommend covering the flooring for any extended period. If covering is needed to protect the flooring from additional work, it should be immediately uncovered after the work is performed. Covering the flooring can give other trades the perception that no damage will occur no matter what they do. In addition, foreign matter between the flooring and the cover can cause abrasions to the surface.
This is especially true in NEW home construction. Covering a newly installed floor over a recently poured concrete basement with fresh paint and dry-wall can cause moisture to be trapped under the covering and causing major damage to the new flooring.

 

ENGINEERED NAIL-DOWN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Inspect the job site carefully before you begin the installation. Some conditions require specific installation methods. A level, flat, clean, dry, and firm subfloor is always necessary. All L.W. Mountain, Inc. products are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficiencies not to exceed 5%. If the material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.

Climate and Pre-Installation Procedures

      •  Material should be stored on the job site in rooms where installation is to occur.
      •  Garages and exterior patios are not suitable for storing wood flooring.
      •  DO NOT remove the product from the cartons. 
      •  DO NOT open just the ends of the cartons. 
      •  HVAC systems MUST be installed and operating before the flooring is delivered to the job site. 
      •  All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. 
      •  Exterior Grading should be complete with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3’ in 10’. 
      •  Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24” from the ground to the underside of the joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to 1.5% of the crawl space square footage.

lwmountain .jpg

Make sure the room environment is set at a normal living range 55 – 80 degrees and 35 – 55% humidity. Normal living conditions should be achieved and maintained a minimum of fourteen days before flooring is brought into the living area for acclimation purposes. It should be maintained during and after the installation as well. Proper acclimation is not a measurement of time; it is a measurement of moisture levels. It requires taking moisture readings of the flooring and the sub-flooring. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Using a moisture meter, test the subfloor and hardwood flooring for moisture content. Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6-12% depending on your area. When wood flooring is produced for the North American market, it has a moisture content of between 6-9%. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. For wide‐width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. 
      The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (35-55%) within the home throughout the year. L.W. Mountain, Inc. is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.

Appropriate Subfloors

      1.  Preferred Subfloor
            1)  ¾ inch CDX plywood in 4 x 8-foot sheets
            2)  ¾ inch OSB - PS2 rated in 4 x 8-foot sheets
      2.  Existing wood floors
      3.  Sheet vinyl or resilient tile as long as it is installed over one of the preferred subfloors.
      4.  Concrete slabs – Installation should be done by installer with substantial knowledge of N.W.F.A. (National Wood Flooring Association) recommended alternatives for installing over concrete slabs.
      5.  In-floor Radiant Heat: With radiant heat, heat source is directly beneath the flooring, so flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than in a home with conventional heating system. For this installation, once slab has cured, turn heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Maximum surface temperature should never be more than 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).

Radiant Heated Floors – L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends, and warranties certain engineered flooring be installed over in-floor radiant heated subfloors. Contact us for recommended floors. Our SOLID should NEVER be installed over any kind of radiant heat system.

Subfloor Preparation

      1.  Subfloors must be cleaned. This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials. 
      2.  Subfloors must be flat. ¼ inch in 10 feet. Sand all seams and high spots. 
      3.  Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start. Renail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak. Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
      4.  The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.

Solid_Figure1-2 (1).jpg

Above Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. 

On Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. L.W. Mountain. Inc. does not recommend gluing down solid wood on concrete slabs. Solid Bamboo can be glued with appropriate adhesives. *See Technical Letter* 

Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed. Solid wood and bamboo should not be installed below grade.

 

Installation

Notice: The installer is the final inspector of this product. Once a board is nailed or glued to the floor, it is deemed to be acceptable to the installer and homeowner. If the installer is not sure whether or not the floor’s milling or grading is acceptable, work should stop immediately, and a call should be made to the person that sold the floor.

L.W. Mountain, Inc. requires using only wood flooring nail guns designed specifically for engineered floors.

Mechanical Fastener Selection 

Staples or cleats may be used for our other flooring, however, be aware that all cleats are made to install wood flooring, only certain staples are made exclusively for use with flooring. Using staples which are not directly intended for flooring can lead to loose and squeaking floors. This would be considered improper installation and void the warranty.

            For flooring thicknesses 3/8”: 18 – 20 gauge 1 ¼” or longer staples
            For flooring thicknesses ½” – 9/16”: 18 – 20 gauge 1 3/8” or longer staples
            For flooring thicknesses 5/8”: 16 – 18 gauge 1 ½” or longer staples

TEST THE NAILER: Using one of the recommended type nail guns, test by fastening a sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface damage in a well-lighted area, verify air pressure setting and tongue damage, make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins, remove the test board. Tongue fracture and surface dimpling during installation is common and can be minimized by (1) using the correct nail thickness, (2) using the recommended shoe adaptor, or (3) changing the angle of nail entry. Many installers will temporarily adjust the nailer angle by applying layers of duct tape to the bottom foot plate of the nailer. In addition, to reduce the occurrence of surface dimpling, the use of flooring nailers with a thinner 18-20 gage cleat nail is recommended for bamboo especially the much harder Strand Bamboo. The use of the over-size base plate in order to distribute the driving force is encouraged. If, however, surface dimpling or tongue fracture still occurs, drilling pilot holes and hand nailing may be required. Pounding boards together during assembly with a rubber mallet may damage unprotected board edges.

Note: Only use flooring nailers that are fully adjustable and that engage the top profile over the tongue at the appropriate angle. Make sure that the flooring nailer is in good working condition and seats properly against the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.

CleatNailer1.jpg
CleatNailer2.jpg

               

Important: Set air compressor pressure to allow appropriate fastener penetration. Test and adjust the air pressure to ensure proper setting of fasteners. If tongue damage occurs, lower the air pressure.

L.W. Mountain, Inc. only requires using proper mechanical fastening techniques for our solid wood flooring since all of our solid products are less than 5” in width. The use of “Glue-assist” is an option. This can help reduce the possibility of squeaky floors. Please contact us for proper “Glue-assist” techniques and recommended adhesives.

A.  Before installing wood flooring, place an approved vapor retarder. Some examples of acceptable vapor retarders over wood subfloors include: 
      1.  An asphalt laminated paper meeting UU-B-790a, Grade B, Type 1, Style 1a.
      2.  Asphalt-saturated kraft paper of #15 or #30 felt that meets ASTM standard D- 4869 or UU-B-790, Grade
      3.  Red Rosin Paper
B.  All solid wood and bamboo should be installed perpendicular to joists or on a diagonal for any single layer subfloor. 
C.  Wall Line Layout
      1.  Choose a starting wall according to the most aesthetically or architecturally important elements in the room, taking into consideration fireplaces, doors, cabinets, and transitions, as well as the squareness of the room. Outside walls of homes are generally the straightest. The starting wall will often be the longest unbroken wall in the room. 
      2.  Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, allowing a ¾ inch expansion space between the starting wall and the edge of the first run.
      3.  As a general rule, a ¾ inch expansion space must be left around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions.
      4.  Lay one row of flooring along the entire length of the working line.
      5.  Blind-nail the first row (hand-nail if necessary), using appropriate fasteners. Denser species (such as Acacia, Jatoba, and Strand Bamboo) may require predrilling. Each succeeding row should be blind-nailed with the nailing machine whenever possible. All nailing should begin and end approximately 2” from the ends of each board and continue every 6-8”. At the finishing wall and other obstructions, it may be necessary to blind-nail by hand or glue-down with subfloor adhesive, the final rows. 
      6.  Racking rule of thumb: Stagger end joints in adjacent rows at least twice the width of the boards, as product allows. Avoid H-joints. See Figure A-1. 

FigureA.jpg


      7.  Nailing: Blind-nail through the tongue. Use 1 ¾ inch to 2 inch fasteners for solid wood. Use 1 ½ inch fasteners for thinner woods and bamboos. Fasteners should be spaced every 6-8 inches on blind-nailing.
      8.  Complete the final rows by either blind-nailing or gluing them down with subfloor adhesive. L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not recommend top-nailing any pre-finished flooring due to visual aspects.

Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a 1/2 inch expansion space left between it and the floor. If your drywall stops at least ¾” above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the 1/2” expansion space requirement.

         •  Once the floor has been completed the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room. This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor. 
         •  Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
         •  Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner.
         •  Enjoy your new hard wood floor.

Trims & Transitions

There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another. Before completing your floor it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor. These are rough diagrams of common transition pieces, bamboo transitions are different thicknesses.

Transitions.jpg

 

Moldings must always be nailed to the wall or subfloor, never to the hardwood flooring.

Additional Information

Waste Factor
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor. During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor. In addition, some boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste. Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep your floor’s appearance. The standard in the flooring industry is to order five - ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.

Post Installation
L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not recommend covering the flooring for any extended period. If covering is needed to protect the flooring from additional work, it should be immediately uncovered after the work is performed. Covering the flooring can give other trades the perception that no damage will occur no matter what they do. In addition, foreign matter between the flooring and the cover can cause abrasions to the surface.
This is especially true in NEW home construction. Covering a newly installed floor over a recently poured concrete basement with fresh paint and dry-wall can cause moisture to be trapped under the covering and causing major damage to the new flooring.

FLOATING CLICK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

For use with Engineered Floors only.

Inspect the job site carefully before you begin the installation. Some conditions require specific installation methods. A level, flat, clean, dry, and firm subfloor is always necessary. All L.W. Mountain, Inc. products are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficiencies not to exceed 5%. If the material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.

Climate and Pre-Installation Procedures

      •  Material should be stored on the job site in rooms where installation is to occur.
      •  Garages and exterior patios are not suitable for storing wood flooring.
      •  DO NOT remove the product from the cartons. 
      •  DO NOT open just the ends of the cartons. 
      •  HVAC systems must be installed and operating before the flooring is delivered to the job site. 
      •  All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. 
      •  Exterior Grading should be complete with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3’ in 10’. 
      •  Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24” from the ground to the underside of the joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to 1.5% of the crawl space square footage.

lwmountain .jpg

Make sure the room environment is set at a normal living range 55 – 80 degrees and 35 – 55% humidity. Normal living conditions should be achieved and maintained a minimum of fourteen days before flooring is brought into the living area for acclimation purposes. It should be maintained during and after the installation as well. Proper acclimation is not a measurement of time; it is a measurement of moisture levels. It requires taking moisture readings of the flooring and the subflooring. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Using a moisture meter, test the subfloor and hardwood flooring for moisture content. Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6-12% depending on your area. When wood flooring is produced for the North American market, it has a moisture content of between 6-9%. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and subflooring materials. For wide‐width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and subflooring materials. 

The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (35-55%) within the home throughout the year. L.W. Mountain, Inc. is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.

Appropriate Subfloors

 1.  Preferred Subfloor
            1)  ¾ inch CDX plywood in 4 x 8-foot sheets
            2)  ¾ inch OSB - PS2 rated in 4 x 8-foot sheets
      2.  Existing Wood Floors
      3.  Sheet vinyl or resilient tile as long as it is installed over one of the preferred subfloors.
      4.  Concrete slabs – Installation should be done by installer with substantial knowledge of N.W.F.A. (National Wood Flooring Association) recommended alternatives for installing over concrete slabs.
      5.  In-Floor Radiant Heat: With radiant heat, heat source is directly beneath the flooring, so flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than in a home with conventional heating system. For this installation, once slab has cured, turn heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Maximum surface temperature should never be more than 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).

Radiant Heated Floors – L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends, and warranties certain engineered flooring be installed over in-floor radiant heated subfloors. Contact us for recommended floors. Our solid floors should never be installed over any kind of radiant heat system.

Subfloor Preparation

      1.  Subfloors must be cleaned. This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials. 
      2.  Subfloors must be flat. ¼ inch in 10 feet. Sand all seams and high spots. 
      3.  Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start. Renail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak. Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
      4.  The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.

Solid_Figure1-2.jpg

                                                 
Above Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. 

On Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. L.W. Mountain. Inc. does not recommend gluing down solid wood on concrete slabs. Solid Bamboo can be glued with appropriate adhesives. *See Technical Letter* 

Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed. Solid wood and bamboo should not be installed below grade.

Installation

Notice: The installer is the final inspector of this product. Once a board is nailed or glued to the floor, it is deemed to be acceptable to the installer and homeowner. If the installer is not sure whether or not the floor’s milling or grading is acceptable, work should stop immediately, and a call should be made to the person that sold the floor.

Floating - Click Joint Method

Maximum room dimensions for an engineered floating floor are 25 ft. across the boards or 40 ft. lengthwise. Maximum room dimensions for a solid strand floating floor are 16 ft. across the boards or 35 ft. lengthwise. Floors exceeding either of these dimensions require use of “T-Molding”. “T-Molding” should be installed in any doorway connecting to larger areas of flooring. A minimum of one butt seam is required in every other row, regardless of width (e.g. hallways).

Never attach any permanent object through the flooring, affixing it to the subfloor. Never install cabinets on top of floating floors. A floating floor must be free to expand and contract in all directions.

Step 1
If installing over below-grade concrete, a 6 mil plastic moisture barrier must be laid over entire subfloor before any other underlayment. Overlap plastic seams 8 inches. Layout 2n1 underlayment foam or other sound deadening underlayment, butting seams. 

Step 2
Begin installation from the longest straightest wall, usually an outside wall. Start in the corner and lay first row, with tongue ends and sides toward wall. Proper expansion space can be achieved by pulling floor away from wall once first three rows have been installed. Use spacers to maintain a proper expansion space of ½ inch.

Step 3
Engage tongue of next board into groove of previous board by holding it against the first board at approx. 45º angle and laying it flat on the floor. Continue in this manner for entire first row.

Step 4
Cut end board in first row to correct length and start second row with left-over piece (if possible). End joints should be staggered by at least twice the width of the plank. Butt seam must be placed in each row regardless of width, e.g. hallways. Do not use stair step spacing and avoid H joints. See Figure A-1

FigureA-1.jpg

Step 5
Engage tongue of next board into groove of previous boards by holding the board at approx. 45º angle to the previous boards. Press forward to engage joint and lay flat on floor. 

Step 6
Engage short end of new board. Lay flat keeping long side in line with groove of adjacent board. 

Step 7
Using tapping block, carefully tap long edges together until they are closed. Do not tap too hard or over-engage. Never tap directly against wear layer. Continue this process until you reach the end wall. 

Step 8
Cut last board to correct width. Place last board on top of second-to-last board. Mark board with help of piece of board without locking edge. Use floor pull bar and mallet to click the long side of planks. 

NOTE: If boards cannot be easily angled under door frame (or similar), do the following: cut away locking edge, then apply Floating Floor Adhesive and install board.

Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a ½ inch expansion space left between it and the floor. If your drywall stops at least ¾” above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the ½ inch expansion space requirement.

         •  Once the floor has been completed the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room. This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor. 
         •  Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
         •  Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood cleaner.
         •  Enjoy your new hardwood floor.

Trims and Transitions

There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another. Before completing your floor, it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor.

FloatingTransitions.jpg
StairNosing.jpg

Moldings must always be glued or nailed to the wall or subfloor, never to the hardwood flooring.

Additional Information

Waste Factor  
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor. During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor. In addition, some boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste. Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep your floor’s appearance. The standard in the flooring industry is to order five - ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.

Post Installation
Do not install cabinets on top of any floating floor. It will inhibit the expansion and contraction of the floor.  

L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not recommend covering the flooring for any extended period. If covering is needed to protect the flooring from additional work, it should be immediately uncovered after the work is performed. Covering the flooring can give other trades the perception that no damage will occur no matter what they do. In addition, foreign matter between the flooring and the cover can cause abrasions to the surface. 

This is especially true in new home construction. Covering a newly installed floor over a recently poured concrete basement with fresh paint and dry-wall can cause moisture to be trapped under the covering and causing major damage to the new flooring.

FLOATING GLUE JOINT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

For use with Engineered Wood Floors Only

Inspect the job site carefully before you begin the installation. Some conditions require specific installation methods. A level, flat, clean, dry, and firm subfloor is always necessary. All L.W. Mountain, Inc. products are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficiencies not to exceed 5%. If the material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.

Climate and Pre-Installation Procedures

      •  Material should be stored on the job site in rooms where installation is to occur.
      •  Garages and exterior patios are not suitable for storing wood flooring.
      •  Do not remove the product from the cartons. 
      •  Do not open just the ends of the cartons. 
      •  HVAC systems must be installed and operating before the flooring is delivered to the job site. 
      •  All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. 
      •  Exterior Grading should be complete with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3’ in 10’. 
      •  Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24” from the ground to the underside of the joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to 1.5% of the crawl space square footage.

lwmountain .jpg

 

      Make sure the room environment is set at a normal living range 55 – 80 degrees and 35 – 55% humidity. Normal living conditions should be achieved and maintained a minimum of fourteen days before flooring is brought into the living area for acclimation purposes. It should be maintained during and after the installation as well. Proper acclimation is not a measurement of time; it is a measurement of moisture levels. It requires taking moisture readings of the flooring and the sub-flooring. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Using a moisture meter, test the subfloor and hardwood flooring for moisture content. Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6-12% depending on your area. When wood flooring is produced for the North American market, it has a moisture content of between 6-9%. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. For wide‐width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. 
      The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (35-55%) within the home throughout the year. L.W. Mountain, Inc. is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.

APPROPRIATE SUBFLOORS

      1.  Preferred Subfloor
            1)  ¾ inch CDX plywood in 4 x 8-foot sheets
            2)  ¾ inch OSB - PS2 rated in 4 x 8-foot sheets
      2.  Existing wood floors
      3.  Sheet vinyl or resilient tile as long as it is installed over one of the preferred subfloors.
      4.  Concrete slabs – Installation should be done by installer with substantial knowledge of N.W.F.A. (National Wood Flooring Association) recommended alternatives for installing over concrete slabs.
      5.  In-floor Radiant Heat: With radiant heat, heat source is directly beneath the flooring, so flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than in a home with conventional heating system. For this installation, once slab has cured, turn heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Maximum surface temperature should never be more than 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).

Radiant Heated Floors – L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends, and warranties certain engineered flooring be installed over in-floor radiant heated subfloors. Contact us for recommended floors. Our solid should never be installed over any kind of radiant heat system.

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION

      1.  Subfloors must be cleaned. This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials. 
      2.  Subfloors must be flat. ¼ inch in 10 feet. Sand all seams and high spots. 
      3.  Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start. Re-nail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak. Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
      4.  The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.

Solid_Figure1-2.jpg

                                                 
Above Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. 
On Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. L.W. Mountain. Inc. does not recommend gluing down solid wood on concrete slabs. Solid Bamboo can be glued with appropriate adhesives. *See Technical Letter* 
Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed. Solid wood and bamboo should not be installed below grade.

Installation


Notice: The installer is the final inspector of this product. Once a board is nailed or glued to the floor, it is deemed to be acceptable to the installer and homeowner. If the installer is not sure whether or not the floor’s milling or grading is acceptable, work should stop immediately, and a call should be made to the person that sold the floor.

FLOATING – GLUE JOINT METHOD

Maximum room dimensions for an engineered floating floor are 25 ft. across the boards or 40 ft. lengthwise. Floors exceeding either of these dimensions require use of “T-Molding”. A minimum of one butt seam is required in every other row, regardless of width (e.g. hallways). 
Never attach any permanent object through the flooring, affixing it to the subfloor.
Never install kitchen cabinets on top of floating floors. A float-in floor must be free to expand and contract in all directions.

Step 1
If installing over concrete, a 6-mil plastic moisture barrier MUST be laid over entire subfloor before any other underlayment. Overlap plastic seams 8 inches. Layout 2n1 underlayment foam or other sound deadening underlayment, butting seams. 

Step 2
Begin installation from the longest straightest wall, usually an outside wall. Start in the corner and lay first row, with groove ends and sides toward wall. Proper expansion space can be achieved by pulling floor away from wall once first three rows have been installed. Use spacers to maintain a proper expansion space of ½ inch. 

Step 3
Apply a 1/8-inch bead of Floating Floor Adhesive to the top edge of the end groove of the second board. Engage groove onto tongue of the first board. Continue in this manner for entire first row.
 

FlotingS3.jpg


Step 4
Cut end board in first row to correct length and start second row with left-over piece (if possible). End joints must be staggered by at least 12 inches. Butt seam must be placed in each row regardless of width, e.g. hallways.

Step 5
Apply 1/8-inch bead of Floating Floor Adhesive to top edge of the side groove. Engage the groove onto the tongue of the previous row and press together. 

Step 6
For full boards, apply 1/8-inch bead of Floating Floor Adhesive to the top edge of the end and the side grooves. Engage short end of new board keeping long side in line with tongue of adjacent board. 

Step 7
Using tapping block, carefully tap long edges together until they are closed. DO NOT tap too hard or over-engage. Never tap directly against wearlayer. Continue this process until you reach the end wall. 
Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured. (incorrect tape can harm the finish.) Tape together 4 or 5 rows at 18” intervals. 
Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be aware that
over-strapping may adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards, or out-of-square flooring board alignment.

Step 8
Cut last board to correct width. Place last board on top of second-to-last board. Mark board with help of piece of board. Use floor pull bar and mallet to engage the long side of planks. 

FigureA-1.jpg

Racking rule of thumb: Stagger end joints in adjacent rows at least twice the width of the boards, as product allows. Do not use "stair-step" spacing. Avoid End-Joint line up & H-joints. See figure A-1. 
  
Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a ¾ inch expansion space left between it and the floor. If your drywall stops at least ¾” above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the ¾” expansion space requirement.

         •  Once the floor has been completed, the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room. This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor. 
         •  Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
         •  Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner.
         •  Enjoy your new hard wood floor.

Trims & Transitions

There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another. Before completing your floor, it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor.

FloatingTransitions.jpg
StairNosing.jpg

 

 

*Moldings must always be nailed or glued to the wall or subfloor, never to the hardwood flooring.

Additional Information

Waste Factor 
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor. During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor. In addition, some boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste. Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep your floor’s appearance. The standard in the flooring industry is to order five - ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.

Post Installation
Do not install cabinets on top of any floating floor. It will inhibit the expansion and contraction of the floor.

**L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not recommend covering the flooring for any extended period. If covering is needed to protect the flooring from additional work, it should be immediately uncovered after the work is performed. Covering the flooring can give other trades the perception that no damage will occur no matter what they do. In addition, foreign matter between the flooring and the cover can cause abrasions to the surface. 

This is especially true in new home construction. Covering a newly installed floor over a recently poured concrete basement with fresh paint and dry-wall can cause moisture to be trapped under the covering and causing major damage to the new flooring.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

For use with Engineered Wood Floors Only

Inspect the job site carefully before you begin the installation. Some conditions require specific installation methods. A level, flat, clean, dry, and firm subfloor is always necessary. All L.W. Mountain, Inc. products are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficiencies not to exceed 5%. If the material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.

Climate and Pre-Installation Procedures

      •  Material should be stored on the job site in rooms where installation is to occur.
      •  Garages and exterior patios are not suitable for storing wood flooring.
      •  Do not remove the product from the cartons. 
      •  Do not open just the ends of the cartons. 
      •  HVAC systems must be installed and operating before the flooring is delivered to the job site. 
      •  All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. 
      •  Exterior Grading should be complete with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3’ in 10’. 
      •  Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24” from the ground to the underside of the joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to 1.5% of the crawl space square footage.

lwmountain .jpg

 

Make sure the room environment is set at a normal living range 55 – 80 degrees and 35 – 55% humidity. Normal living conditions should be achieved and maintained a minimum of fourteen days before flooring is brought into the living area for acclimation purposes. It should be maintained during and after the installation as well. Proper acclimation is not a measurement of time; it is a measurement of moisture levels. It requires taking moisture readings of the flooring and the sub-flooring. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Using a moisture meter, test the subfloor and hardwood flooring for moisture content. Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6-12% depending on your area. When wood flooring is produced for the North American market, it has a moisture content of between 6-9%. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. For wide‐width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials. 

The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (35-55%) within the home throughout the year. L.W. Mountain, Inc. is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.

Appropriate Subfloors

      1.  Preferred Subfloor
            1)  ¾ inch CDX plywood in 4 x 8-foot sheets
            2)  ¾ inch OSB - PS2 rated in 4 x 8-foot sheets
      2.  Existing wood floors
      3.  Sheet vinyl or resilient tile as long as it is installed over one of the preferred subfloors.
      4.  Concrete slabs – Installation should be done by installer with substantial knowledge of N.W.F.A. (National Wood Flooring Association) recommended alternatives for installing over concrete slabs.
      5.  In-floor Radiant Heat: With radiant heat, heat source is directly beneath the flooring, so flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than in a home with conventional heating system. For this installation, once slab has cured, turn heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Maximum surface temperature should never be more than 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).

Radiant Heated Floors – L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends, and warranties certain engineered flooring be installed over in-floor radiant heated subfloors. Contact us for recommended floors. Our solid should never be installed over any kind of radiant heat system.

Subfloor Preparation

      1.  Subfloors must be cleaned. This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials. 
      2.  Subfloors must be flat. ¼ inch in 10 feet. Sand all seams and high spots. 
      3.  Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start. Re-nail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak. Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
      4.  The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.

Solid_Figure1-2.jpg

                                                 
Above Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. 
On Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. L.W. Mountain. Inc. does not recommend gluing down solid wood on concrete slabs. Solid Bamboo can be glued with appropriate adhesives. *See Technical Letter* 
Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed. Solid wood and bamboo should not be installed below grade.

Installation

                                                                         
Notice:
The installer is the final inspector of this product. Once a board is nailed or glued to the floor, it is deemed to be acceptable to the installer and homeowner. If the installer is not sure whether or not the floor’s milling or grading is acceptable, work should stop immediately, and a call should be made to the person that sold the floor.

Glue Down Method

•  LW Mountain, Inc. recommends moisture testing and the use of moisture barriers. 100% urethane wood flooring adhesives should be used. 

Note: If installing over radiant heated subfloor, the adhesive must be approved for use over radiant heat. L.W. Mountain, Inc. ZENITH Urethane and APEX MS Polymer adhesives meet all our installation recommendations. 

•  To ensure glue transfer, glue manufactures recommend rolling the flooring throughout installation using an 85-100 lb. roller
•  For the best result, do not mix adhesive products. Use moisture barriers and adhesives from the same manufacturer’s product line. 
•  Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel size is determined by board type, size and surface texture. (Ensure a 95% min glue-to-board glue transfer). 
•  During constant use trowel teeth will wear down. For best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of adhesive. 
•  Discard twisted or warped boards. 
•  Follow the glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers. 
•  Intermix product from several cartons as you install the floor to insure color, grain and shade mix. 
•  Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line. 
Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured. (Incorrect tape can harm the finish.) Tape together 4 or 5 rows at 18” intervals. 

Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be aware that over-strapping may adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards, or out-of-square flooring board alignment.

Cured adhesive can cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish. Clean fresh adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently with mineral spirits or manufacturer-recommended remover. Use clean towels, changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.

Starting Installation

(1)  Determine the starting wall, usually the longest foundation wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out and mark on the floor the width of several rows of boards, (this could be 12”to 24”) include the expansion gap. 
(2)  Next, use a chalk line to connect the two marks. Follow this chalked line when applying both the adhesive and boards. THE FIRST ROWS MUST BE STRAIGHT. 
(3)  Using an approved trowel and wood flooring adhesive, glue the first few rows in the dry area, between the wall and chalk line. 
(4)  Start first row by placing the groove side towards the wall with the tongue side facing outwards. Lay flooring into the adhesive following the straight line. Stay off the new hardwood while working. 
(5)  Progressively lay-in the next boards by engaging the tongue and groove then drop board into adhesive. Avoid dragging or sliding boards together as this can trap or squeeze glue up in between the boards creating gaps. Continue working 4 or 5 rows together, then measure and cut the last boards as needed to complete the rows. 
(6)  The balance of a board cut is used to start a new row, discard lengths under 6”. Avoid clustering of end joints. Stagger the ends of the boards correctly. Smaller boards should be intermixed throughout the installed floor. A tapping block can be used to gently tap the boards into proper position. During installation, end gaps between boards can be minimized by temporarily locking a completed row in place by using spacers placed between the wall and the last board of each row, remove when glue has dried. 
(7)  Repeat the process. Chalk new lines, spread adhesive and continue working 4 or 5 rows together until completed.

FigureA-1.jpg

 

Racking rule of thumb: Stagger end joints in adjacent rows at least twice the width of the boards, as product allows. Do not use "stair-step" spacing. Avoid End-Joint line up & H-joints. See figure A-1. 
 

Installing the Last Row

•  Most often, the entire length of the last row will need to be trimmed so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. It should be glued and wedged into place. Leave all spacers in the expansion space until the adhesive has cured, then remove. Keep the floor free from foot traffic, until adhesive has cured. 
•  Be sure not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area. 
•  If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding to the subfloor. Occasionally lift a board and check for adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength. 
•  When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent thickening and difficulty in spreading the adhesive. Proper ventilation within the room should be provided. Follow the recommendations on the adhesive container. 
•  After installation, allow glue to cure for 24 hrs. before replacing furniture and foot traffic. 
•  For matching milling and finish sheen, save a box of flooring in case of future repairs.

Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a ¾ inch expansion space left between it and the floor. If your drywall stops at least ¾” above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the ¾” expansion space requirement.

         •  Once the floor has been completed, the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room. This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor. 
         •  Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
         •  Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner.
         •  Enjoy your new hard wood floor.

Post Installation

L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not recommend covering the flooring for any extended period. If covering is needed to protect the flooring from additional work, it should be immediately uncovered after the work is performed. Covering the flooring can give other trades the perception that no damage will occur no matter what they do. In addition, foreign matter between the flooring and the cover can cause abrasions to the surface.

This is especially true in NEW home construction. Covering a newly installed floor over a recently poured concrete basement with fresh paint and dry-wall can cause moisture to be trapped under the covering and causing major damage to the new flooring.

Trims & Transitions

There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another. Before completing your floor it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor. These are rough diagrams of common transition pieces, bamboo transitions are different thicknesses.

Transitions.jpg
StairNosing.jpg

Moldings must always be nailed to the wall or subfloor, never to the hardwood flooring.

Additional Information

Waste Factor  
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor. During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor. In addition, some boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste. Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep your floor’s appearance. The standard in the flooring industry is to order five - ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.

COMMERCIAL DRY-BACK LVP INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Acclimation Before Installation

Ensure substrate, flooring and adhesive are fully acclimated to between 65-85 degrees F with a relative humidity no greater than 65% for a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation.

Subfloor Preparation

All subfloors must be clean, smooth and level to within 1/8” in 10ft., and dry. Dust scale, and loose particles must be removed. The surface must be free of solvents, paint, grease, oil, wax, alkali, sealing or curing compounds, and any other foreign material. All subfloor/underlayment patching must be done with non-shrinking water resistant Portland cement floor patching compounds.

Concrete on or above grade must be free of moisture or high alkalinity. A concrete slab must be cured a minimum of 90 days before performing moisture tests prior to the installation of your new flooring. The concrete may require additional drying time dependent upon local environmental conditions.

All plywood subfloors must be covered with a minimum ¼” or heavier underlayment rated panels.

Existing resilient flooring should be removed. If it is not possible to remove the existing resilient floor covering and it is only one layer, then the existing flooring must be covered with an Embossing Leveler.

Floors with radiant heating systems are adequate as long as the floor temperature never exceeds 85 degrees. The heating system should be operating at least 1 week prior to the flooring installation to remove any residual moisture.

Ceramic Tile should be made smooth with cementitious patching or leveling compounds.

Installation

1. Inspect the planks for blemishes or defects.

2. For the best result, begin by installing planks from the center of the room. Measure and mark at the center point of each end wall. Connect the center points with a chalk line or a straight edge and pencil. Locate the center of this line and mark a second line at a right angle.

3. Place a row of tiles along the chalk line from the center point to the wall.

4. Measure the space between the last full tile and the wall. For the best appearance, border planks should be at least 3” (1/2 of a full tile) wide. If it is not, snap a new parallel chalk line 3” from the original center line. Repeat this procedure with the perpendicular guideline and adjust it if required. The point where the new chalk lines cross is your starting point for installing planks.

5. Follow all guidelines for appropriate trowels and application methods as set forth by the adhesive manufacturer. Spread the adhesive in the manner instructed by the adhesive manufacturer.

6. Starting at your “center point”, carefully place a plank at the intersection of the guidelines. Continue installing planks along the center line. Firmly press the plank in place. Place each plank snugly against a previously installed plank, making sure the corners meet. Each row should be offset by a minimum of 6” but in a random fashion for best appearance. Avoid establishing a repeating pattern.

7. When installing border planks, start by placing a border plank(“Plank1”) precisely over a plank in the row closest to the wall. Now lay another plank (“Plank 2”) tightly against the wall and overlapping “Plank 1”. Mark “Plank 1” with a pencil line drawn against “Plank 2”. Cut the plank with the knife score and snap method or with a heavy duty tile cutter, cut “Plank 1” along the line and position it in the border space.

8. To properly fit tiles around doorjambs, pipes or other obstructions, cut a paper pattern and trace on the face of a tile. Cut the tile and make sure it fits into place before installing.

9. Clean any excess adhesive from the face of the tile immediately following the installation. After installation, roll the floor with at least 100Lb roller, if you do not have a roller, use a rolling pin and your body weight. Do not wash your new floor for 48 hours after installation.

Floor Maintenance

•  Regularly sweep or vacuum the floor using the appropriate vacuum attachment. 
•  Immediately clean up spills and any excessive liquid. 
•  Protect flooring from constant direct sunlight. 
•  Occasionally damp mop the floor. 
•  Do not use abrasive cleaners, bleach, or wax. 
•  Use proper floor protection devices such as felt protectors under furniture.

CLICK LVP INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

HomeStyle Tools Needed
    - Utility knife and straight edge
    - Measuring tape
- Tapping block
- Pull Bar
    - Shears for cutting around irregular shaped objects (pipes)
    - 1/8” spacers
    - Planks needed to complete your project

General Information

• The floor covering should be stored and installed in climate constant or climate controlled indoor location with an average temperature of between 65°- 85°F or 18°- 29°C.

• Do not store directly on concrete, allow for air circulation. Do not open the cartons but spread them out and protect corners from damage.

• To minimize shade variation, mix and install planks from several cartons.

• Avoid exposure to direct sunlight for prolonged periods; such exposure may result in discoloration, and excessive temperatures can cause the flooring to expand and lift off of the subfloor. During peak sunlight hours, the use of the drapes or blinds is recommended.

• All subfloor patching must be done with a Portland based compound and allowed to dry completely prior to installing flooring.

• This product can be installed on, above, or below grade.


Subfloor Information

• All subfloors must be clean, flat, dry and structurally sound. The correct preparation of the subfloor is a major part of a successful installation. Roughness or unevenness of the subfloor may telegraph through the new floor covering, resulting in an unsightly surface and may cause excessive wear on high spots. Subfloor must be flat- 3/16" in 10' or 1/8" in 6'.

• Carpet staples or adhesive residue must be removed to insure proper installation.

• Any unevenness over 1/8” (3 mm) must be sanded down or filled with a floor leveler. Voids or humps in the subfloor will prevent Click LVP from locking properly.

Wood Subfloors:

1. Do not install Click LVP over wood subfloors which lay directly on concrete or over sleeper

constructions. 2. All wood and wood composition panels are suitable for the use under Click LVP providing that they are smooth, flat, structurally sound and free of deflection. The panels include plywood, particle board, oriented strand board (OSB), flake board and wafer board.

3. If the surface of the wood subfloor is not smooth, a 1/4” or 6mm underlayment panel must be

installed over the subfloor. 4. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry. Use of a 6 mil. black polyethylene is required to

cover 100% of the crawl space earth. Crawl space clearance from ground to underside of joist is to be no less than 18" and perimeter vent spacing should be equal to 1.5% of the total square footage of the crawl space area to provide cross ventilation. Where necessary, local regulations prevail.

Concrete Subfloors:

1. The concrete subfloor must be dry, smooth and free from dust, solvent, paint, wax, grease, oil, and any other extraneous materials. The surface must be hard and dense, and free from powder or flaking. 2. New concrete slabs must be thoroughly dry (at least six weeks) and completely cured. The final responsibility for determining if the concrete is dry enough for installation of the flooring lies with the floor covering installer. Although Click LVP is not susceptible to damage from moisture, excessive subfloor moisture is an ideal breeding ground for moldiness, mildew and fungus. The limited warranty does not cover discoloration from mold or from any kind of water damage caused by flooding, leaking or similar conditions. 3. Holes, grooves, expansion joints and other depressions must be filled with a latex

underlayment, and troweled smooth and feathered even with the surrounding surface. 4. Concrete floors with a in-floor radiant heating systems are allowed, provided the

temperature of the floor never exceeds 85°F or 29°C. Before installing the flooring, the heating system must be turned on to eliminate residual moisture.

Existing Floor Covering:

1. Click LVP can be installed over most existing hard–surface floor coverings, provided that the

existing floor surface is smooth or can be made smooth. 2. Ceramic tiles should be made smooth by applying a cementitious overlay such as patching or leveling compound. 3. When the removal of the existing resilient floor covering is not an option then it must be covered with an embossing leveling compound or an equivalent to provide a smooth subfloor surface. Otherwise, telegraphing may occur. 4. Existing sheet vinyl floors should not be heavily cushioned and must consist of only one

layer. 5. Never use solvents or citrus adhesive removers to remove old adhesive residue. Solvent

residue left in and on the subfloor, may affect the new floor covering.

WARNING! DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW, BEAD BLAST OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING, LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC "CUTBACK" ADHESIVES OR OTHER ADHESIVES. These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica. Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm. Unless positively certain that the product is a non-asbestos-containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern the removal and disposal of material. See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for detailed information and instructions on removing all resilient covering structures. For current information go to www.rfci.com

CAUTION: Do not install Click LVP over carpet or any foam underlayment. This product is not suitable for any outside use, sunrooms, solariums, sauna, or rooms that have the potential of flooding. We also highly recommend you do not install in rooms or homes that are not temperature controlled. Exposure to long term direct sunlight can cause damage to your floor.

INSTALLATION

Click LVP is designed to be installed with the floating method. Never secure the planks to the subfloor. Always undercut all doorjambs. Never fasten wall moldings and or transition strips to the Click LVP planks.

HELPFUL HINT #1: For best results it is important to install product (cartons) from the same batch number (dye lot). Different batch numbers can have shade variations. Every case has the batch number printed on the end of the carton. Batch number example: AS01. If you do have more than one batch number, we highly recommend you install planks from 4 or 5 different cartons from different batch number at one time and randomly mix them into the installation as you go. This will insure a more natural looking floor.

HELPFUL HINT #2: Before laying out the floor, check the wall you are starting from and make sure it is square to the opposite wall. Simply measure the room from opposite ends of the wall to the far wall. If the measurements are different you can make adjustments on the first row of by scribing the plank.

1. Lay a row of loose planks without securing them to each other first to determine if you need to

adjust the length of the first plank to avoid a small piece of less than 12” on the opposite wall from where you started, or measure the length of the room and divide by 48” (length of one plank). If the remainder is less than 12” calculate 1⁄2 of the remainder and trim this amount off the first plank. The last plank should be the same length as the first one. To cut a plank, simply measure and mark the plank, then using a straight edge and utility knife, simply score the plank and snap. It is that easy! 2. Installation should start in a corner (right hand) and proceed from the wall with the groove facing

out away from the wall. Allow a minimum gap of 5/16” (8 mm) for subfloor movement or product expansion, which should be covered by molding. 3. When laying the first row in a straight line interlock the short ends by inserting the tongue into the grooves at an angle of approximately 15 to 20 degrees. Install each sequential plank on the short end (7”) and be sure to line up evenly. This is very important for a good installation. 4. Be sure to keep the seams tight. You will feel and hear the click when locking the planks

together to create a tight seam. There should be no gap visible between planks. If your seam appears not to be tight, you can immediately pull apart the planks and reapply it. Slowly lift the top plank away from the bottom plank and simply apply then repeating Step #3. Be careful not to pull the planks apart too fast or you could rip or damage the Locking Strip., 5. When installing Click LVP, it is strongly recommended to stagger the rows so that the short edge

(7”) seams are not in a straight uniform line. We recommend the staggered to try other “patterns’ of planks to suite your taste. 6. To start the second row with the plank cut at about 2/3 length (32”). Measure and mark the

plank then using a straight edge and utility knife score the plank and snap. 7. Interlock the plank tightly against the first row (long side) again at a 15-20 degree angle. The

next plank interlock the short side first leaving it slightly away from the long side and then slide into the long side.

HELPFUL HINT #3: When cutting Click LVP for length, be sure to always cut the short side of the plank with the groove edge. The remaining piece can then be used on the opposite side of the room at the end of that row if layout permits.

8. Start the third row with the plank cut at 1/3 of a length (16”) against the remaining piece can be

used at the opposite end of the row. If the layout of the room permits 9. Continue this pattern for the remainder of the rows to be installed. Always place the cut end of

the first plank against the wall 10. Fitting around irregular objects no problem. Simply make a pattern out of heavy paper to fit

around pipes or irregular objects. Place the pattern upon the plank and trace. Cut along trace lines using a utility knife or heavy duty scissors and lay plank. Be sure to leave a minimum of 5/16” expansion space around all fixed objects, floor vents, and door frames. 11. Protect all exposed edges of the Click LVP by installing wall molding and/or transition strips.

Make sure that no plank will be secured in any way to the sub floor. 12. Protect the finished Click LVP installation from exposure to direct sunlight.

HELPFUL HINT #4: Expansion MUST be left at all doorways. Do not install flush to any metal tracks of sliding doors. Use of quarter round or transition is required.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not install in rooms or homes that are not temperature controlled. Exposure to long term direct sunlight can cause damage to your floor.

CARE GUIDE:

• Use doormats outside each entrance to your home to prevent dirt, sand, grit and other substances from being tracked onto your floor. Use non-staining mats on your floor. Do not put rubber- backed, latex-backed or coco fiber mats on your floor because they will stain or damage the surface.

• Close your curtains or blinds where extreme sunlight hits the floor. Exposure to long term direct sunlight can cause damage to your floor.

• Support furniture with wide-bearing, non-staining floor protectors. Ideally, the protectors should be at least one inch in diameter, made of non-pigmented hard plastic, and rest flat on the floor. Non-staining felt protectors are also acceptable. Casters (type W), felt pads or floor protectors are recommended for all moveable furniture. Use protection mats under chairs with caster to avoid abrasion of the vinyl flooring. Make sure that any metal protectors are rust-proof.

• If you need to move heavy furniture and/or appliances across the floor, always use strips of wood or hardboard runways to protect the floor. Always use runways even if you have an appliance dolly, or even if the heavy objects are equipped with wheels or rollers.

• Occasional mopping with Rinse-Free Cleaner is recommended when dirt builds up and sweeping alone is not sufficient. Follow strictly the guidelines given on the bottle. Do not use wax, polish, soap or detergent products.